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Añejo cheese is an "aged" white
Mexican cheese with a dry, crumbly texture and a salty flavor. Look for
it in Mexican markets and well-stocked grocery stores. Grated Romano,
Parmesan, or feta can be substituted.
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Asadero cheese, a Mexican cheese meaning literally
a "roasting" cheese, is a mild, soft white variety typically
used for melting. It is sold in Mexican markets and well-stocked grocery
stores. Mozzarella or Monterey Jack may be substituted.
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Asiago cheese is hard with a crumbly texture,
and its flavor is reminiscent of sharp Cheddar and Parmesan. It is perfect
for the table, grated on salads, and in soups, pastas, and sauces.
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Bel paese, made from whole milk, is a soft-textured,
delicately flavored, pale yellow Italian cheese.
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Blue cheese refers to blue-veined cheeses of many
varieties with rich, tangy flavor and creamy to crumbly consistency.
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Brie is a soft-ripened cheese that comes from
France. Brie has a delicate and creamy texture and its rich, sweet taste
can vary from buttery to mushroomy. This cheese has a thin, edible crust
and becomes even more flavorful with age; it tastes best when served at
room temperature. Brie is usually made from cow's milk and its quality
varies depending on which milk (whole or skim) is used.
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Brousse de brebis cheese is a mellow-flavored
cow's milk cheese usually sold in small squares. It is available in specialty-food
shops.
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Cabrales cheese is a Spanish goat's milk cheese
similar in taste to Roquefort. If it is unavailable, substitute any blue
cheese.
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Caciotta cheese, a creamy, semi-hard cheese, is
made from all sheep's milk or a blend of sheep's and cow's milk and ranges
from mild to slightly tangy when aged. Varieties include dolce sardo from
Sardinia, Caciotta toscana from Tuscany, and pientino from Pienza.
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Cheddar, a firm, smooth-textured, whole-milk cheese,
ranges in color from pale yellow-white to deep yellow-orange and in taste
from mild and sweet when fresh to sharp and tangy when aged.
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Chihuahua cheese is a white cows milk cheese that
comes from Oaxaca, Mexico. This cheese is also known as Asadero which
means roaster or broiler and it has good melting properties. The cheese
becomes soft and stringy when melted. Extensively used in Mexican
cooking.
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Colby cheese is a firm, mild-flavored cow's milk
cheese that is light orange in color.
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Cotija cheese is a salty, white Mexican cheese
with a dry, crumbly texture It resembles Añejo cheese.
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Cottage cheese is a fresh cheese made from whole,
part-skimmed or skimmed Pasteurized cow's milk. It has a mild, bland flavor
and is quite moist. Cottage cheese comes in three forms: small-curd, medium
curd and large curd. It is typically eaten as a snack
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Cream cheese is a smooth, white, mild-tasting
cheese made from cream and milk. Purchase in bulk at good-quality delicatessens
for a cheese with a better taste and a creamier texture. Refrigerate and
use within a week.
To soften cream cheese:
Wrap in plastic wrap and place in a microwave oven set on high. Heat for
20 seconds, repeating if necessary until soft. Or, immerse cheese in an
airtight commercial wrapper in hot water until the desired consistency
is reached, 2-3 minutes.
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Emmenthaler cheese, a common variety of Swiss
cheese, has a firm, smooth texture, large holes, and a mellow, slightly
sweet, and nutty flavor.
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Farmer cheese, which is similar in appearance
to ricotta, is a small-curd, cow's milk cheese that is low in fat and
has a fairly dry consistency.
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Feta cheese, a traditional brine-cured Greek goat's
or sheep's milk cheese, is white, salty, and sharp tasting and has a consistency
that ranges from creamy to crumbly and dry. Some feta cheeses are now
made of cow's milk.
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Fontina cheese, made from cow's milk, is a firm,
creamy, delicate Italian cheese with a slightly nutty taste. Fontina from
the Aosta Valley of northwestern Italy is generally considered the best.
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Goat cheeses, made from goat's milk, have a creamy
consistency and a distinctive sharp tang. Also known by the French term
chèvres, they are sold shaped into small rounds or logs. Some have
flavorful coatings of pepper, ashes or mixed herbs.
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Gorgonzola cheese, a specialty of Lombardy, is
named for a town just outside of Milan, Italy. It is a mild, creamy, pale
yellow blue-veined cheese made from fresh cow's milk.
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Gorgonzola dolcelatte cheese, an Italian blue-veined
cheese meaning literally "sweet milk," is a mild, creamy variety
of Gorgonzola.
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Gouda cheese, a cow's milk cheese, varies in flavor
from mild to sharp, depending upon the age. This soft-textured cheese
is sold in rounds covered with a wax rind.
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Grana cheese refers to a group of granular, finely-grained
hard cheeses. Two of Italy's most widely acclaimed cheeses, Parmigiano-Reggiano
and Grana Padano, belong to the grana (granular) group of cheeses.
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Gruyere cheese, a variety of Swiss cheese with
small holes, has a firm, smooth texture and a relatively strong flavor.
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Hot Pepper Jack cheese is California Jack or Jack
cheese that contains jalapeņo peppers and/or flavorings. It is made from
whole, partly skimmed or skimmed cow's milk. It has high moisture and
good melting properties, making it excellent for sandwiches
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Jarlsberg cheese is a Norwegian cheese that resembles
Swiss Emmenthaler, but has a slightly sweeter flavor.
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Kasseri cheese is a Greek sheep's or goat's milk
cheese with a semi-hard consistency similar to cheddar, punctuated by
a few tiny holes, and a taste similar to feta.
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Kefalotiri cheese is a hard, yellow common Greek
grating cheese, made from un-pasteurized sheep's or goat's milk.
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Manchego is a classic Spanish cheese made from
cow's milk. Depending on how it is used, other cheeses such as Romano,
Parmesan, white cheddar, or Monterey jack can be substituted.
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Mascarpone cheese is a thick Italian cream cheese
that is similar to French crème fraîche. It is used to enrich
sauces or desserts and may also be sweetened and flavored for eating on
its own. Look for Mascarpone, sold in small tubs, in Italian delicatessens
and specialty-food shops.
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Maytag cheese is an American blue-veined cheese,
with a fairly firm consistency. It is generally milder than its European
counterparts.
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Mizithra, a fresh Greek cheese, is made from the
whey produced in the making of feta or Kefalotiri cheese. Whole fresh
sheep's or cow's milk is often added to enrich the final result.
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Monterey jack cheese, made from whole, partly
skimmed, or skimmed cow's milk, is a semi-soft white melting cheese with
a mild flavor and buttery texture. This California specialty was developed
in the mid-19th century by Monterey farmer David Jacks as his own version
of a cheese made by the friars in the Spanish missions.
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Mozzarella cheese is a rindless white, mild-tasting
Italian variety of cheese traditionally made from water buffalo's milk
and sold fresh. Commercially produced cow's milk mozzarella is much more
common, but less flavorful. Fresh mozzarella is sold immersed in water
and should be drained before using. Small, bite-sized balls of fresh cheese
are known as bocconcini. Mozzarella is also flavored and preserved by
smoking, giving it a sturdier texture and a deep yellowish brown color.
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Oaxaca Cheese is a white cows milk cheese that
comes from Oaxaca, Mexico. This cheese is also known as assured which
means roaster or broiler and has good melting properties. The cheese becomes
soft and stringy when melted. Also known as Chihuahua.
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Panela is a fresh Mexican cheese with a soft,
slightly spongy texture. Look for it in Mexican markets and well-stocked
food stores. Depending upon the recipe, Monterey jack, fresh mozzarella,
dry cottage cheese, farmer cheese, or dry ricotta can be substituted.
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Parmesan cheese, a hard, thick-crusted Italian
cow's milk cheese, has a sharp, salty, full flavor resulting from up to
2 years of aging. It takes its name from the city of Parma, though it
originated midway between that city and Reggio, where the finest Italian
variety, Parmigiano-Reggiano, is produced. Buy in block form, to grate
fresh as needed.
To shave Parmesan cheese:
Use a vegetable peeler to pare paper-thin sheets from a piece of Parmesan.
To grate Parmesan cheese: Draw a piece of Parmesan against the holes of
a handheld grater. Or, use a rotary cheese grater.
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Parmigiano Reggiano is considered by many as the
best parmesan cheese around. This hard, sharp cow's-milk cheese used primarily
in grated form, tastes best when freshly grated. The tough, brownish-gold
oily rind encases a gold interior of granular texture that gets quite
brittle when aged. The original Parmigiano Reggiano is being produced
only in the area of Bologna, Mantua, Modena, or Parma.
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Pecorino cheese, an Italian sheep's milk cheese,
is sold fresh or aged. Two of the most popular aged forms are pecorino
Romano and pecorino sardo; the latter is tangier than the former.
To shave pecorino cheese:
Use a vegetable peeler to pare paper-thin sheets from a piece of pecorino.
To grate pecorino cheese: Draw a piece of pecorino against the holes of
a handheld grater. Or, use a rotary cheese grater.
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Pepper jack cheese, made from whole, partly skimmed,
or skimmed cow's milk, is a semi-soft white melting cheese with chili
peppers. It has a mild flavor and buttery texture. This is a variation
of Monterey jack cheese.
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Provolone, an Italian whole-milk cheese made from
cow's or water buffalo's milk, is fairly firm in texture and pale yellow
in color. Its flavor ranges from mild and slightly sweet to strong and
tangy.
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Queso Anejo is a firm, pressed cheese that's been
rolled in paprika. This cheese is not as strongly flavored as Cotija but
can be easily shredded or grated. It is commonly used as a topping or
stuffing for enchiladas, burritos, and tacos.
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Queso fresco, meaning literally "fresh cheese,"
is a soft, crumbly fresh cow's milk cheese used to garnish many Mexican
dishes. Also known as Queso blanco, it can be found in Latin markets.
Mild feta cheese may be substituted.
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Queso panela is a popular Mexican cheese with
a mild, white flavor and crumbly texture. This soft cheese maintains its
shape when heated - it becomes soft and creamy but not runny. The cheese
is commonly used in Mexican dishes and is typically crumbled over salads,
used in tacos, chili and burritos.
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Raclette cheese is a type of hard cheese that
is made from cow's milk and usually used in a dish with the same name.
The flavor and texture is very similar to Gruyere cheese. This cheese
originates from Switzerland and can be found in specialty cheese stores
and better supermarkets.
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Ricotta cheese is a light-textured, mild fresh
Italian cheese with a soft texture, made from twice-cooked milk-traditionally
sheep's milk, although cow's milk ricotta is far more common. Whole milk
or part-skim products are available, sold in small tubs in most grocery
stores. For best quality, seek out fresh ricotta, found in Italian delicatessens.
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Romano cheese is an Italian variety of cheese
traditionally made from sheep's milk and also made from goat's or cow's
milk. It is sold fresh or, more commonly, aged. Buy in block form to use
fresh as needed.
To shave Romano cheese:
Pare paper-thin sheets from a piece of Romano with a vegetable peeler.
To grate Romano cheese: Draw the cheese against the holes of a handheld
grater. Or, use a rotary cheese grater.
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Roquefort cheese, a French cheese made from sheep's
milk, has a creamy consistency and a rich, sharp taste.
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Stilton cheese is an English blue-veined cheese
made from cow's milk. It is firm and slightly crumbly.
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Swiss cheese, a firm whole-milk cheese, is pale
creamy yellow in color with distinctive holes that grow larger and more
numerous with ripening. Varieties of Swiss cheese range from mild and
slightly sweet to strong and nutlike.
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Taleggio cheese, a cow's milk cheese from Lombardy,
is appreciated for its soft, smooth texture and a taste that ranges from
slightly piquant to strong depending upon age.
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Double and triple crème cheeses, what we
Americans call cream cheese is a very distant relative to these rich,
creamy, fresh cheeses from France. They vary in texture from thick, heavy
sour or fresh cream, to semi-firm cream. All are delicate with a refreshing
tang. Many varieties are blended with a mixture of herbs and garlic or
spices, such as pepper.
Double and triple creme cheeses:
According to French law these cheeses are classified double crème
when they contain a minimum of 60 per cent butter fat (rnatière
grasse) per gram, and triple crème when they contain a minimum
of 75 per cent butter fat per gram.
These crèmes are delightful at any time of day, for any menu or
snack. Simply spread on crusty French bread, perhaps serve with fresh
fruits in season (not citrus). Fruity wines are ideal to accompany these
cheeses, particularly rosé. Many Americans enjoy the herbed or
peppered versions of these cheeses at the cocktail hour. Among
the crèmes available are:
Bellétoile. - - A soft-ripened triple crème, with
no rind, it is easily spreadable. It comes as 5-oz. round, plain or herb-flavored.
Boursault. - - Another triple crème, soft-ripened cheese
available in an 8-oz. round. This cheese is very creamy almost like a
mixture of Brie and heavy cream.
Boursin. A fresh cows milk, double crème, white with
an edible crust. It has a tangy flavor and is available with herbs or
pepper.
Brillat-Savarin. . . From Normandy, this triple crème is
a thick, plump, white disk, with a buttery texture and elasticity.
Excelsior. . - Similar to Boursin and Boursault, without spices
or herbs. Contains 72 per cent butter fat and comes in an 8-oz. cylinder.
Fromage de Monsieur Fromage. . - A small round, double crème,
first made in Normandy about 75 years ago.
Gervais. . . Usually packaged in squares or rectangles. Its texture
is similar to that of American-type cream cheese, but its flavor is richer
and slightly tangy.
La Bouille.. . This rich, triple crème is not flavored,
but has its own special tang. The 1 l-oz. round is available in a wood-chip
basket.
La Bourse. - . This is a triple crème, flavored with herbs
and garlic. It is round and available either in 2/2- oz. or 5-oz.
portions.
Margotin. - - This crème is a mixture of cows and
goats milk, which makes it a less fatty, drier cheese. It is either
flavored with herbs or with pepper.
Petit Suisse. - . One of Frances most popular double crèmes,
this cheese may contain from 60 to 75 per cent butter fat. Available in
l-oz. plastic cups.
Provencal. - . Another triple crème, available as a 5-oz.
round cheese in a cardboard box. It is flavored either with herbs and
garlic or with pepper.
Tartare. . - This fresh, very creamy triple crème is only
available flavored with herbs and garlic.
Soft Cheeses:
These exquisite cheeses are the result of French cheese-making genius.
They are known as soft paste cheeses, usually having a white powdery crust
which, when ripened, is tinged reddish brown and the center is soft to
the touch. Inside, the cheese is golden yellow, creamy, buttery smooth
and runny. Once the crust is cut, the cheese ceases to ripen.
As with all French cheeses, this type must be served at room temperature.
Again serve them with crusty French bread, apples, grapes, peaches or
pears, and for most of them a light to medium French red wine makes an
ideal accompaniment.
Bibress. . . A cylinder-shaped creamy cheese with a flavor similar
to a mild blue cheese.
Brie. . . The King of soft-ripened cheeses. Its powdery,
white edible crust becomes tinged reddish brown when the cheese is fully
ripened. As with each of this type of cheese, it reaches its peak at room
temperature.
Brie de Meaux. - - One of the original, authentic Brie cheeses,
named after the city in which it is made.
Brie de Melun. - . Another authentic variety of this famous cheese,
also named after the city where it is made.
Bache Lorraine. . - Similar to Brie in texture and flavor, is available
in the shape of a log.
Cambree. . - This newcomer is a combination of Brie and Camembert,
with 50 per cent butter fat. It comes in a rectangular loaf which weighs
six pounds.
Camembert. . . One of Frances most popular cheeses of this
variety, known and admired throughout the world. Available in an 8-oz.
round, it is an original specialty of the province of Normandy.
Caprice des Dieux - . . An oval-shaped cheese, slightly creamier
than Camembert with an edible crust.
Carre de 1 Est . .. A square-shaped cheese, similar in flavor
to Brie, but milder. As with most of this variety, the crust is edible.
Chaource - . - A specialty of Champagne country, this cheese is
creamy, plump and round in shape. Its white crust is edible.
Coulommiers - . - Made in the same region as Brie, it is smaller
in size, plumper than its cousin, but similar in flavor and texture.
Fol Amour... An oval-shaped cheese, made in the north of France,
and similar to Brie in flavor and texture.
St. Benoit - . . A specialty of the area of Orleans, it is made
from skimmed cows milk and is in the shape of a small, thick disk.
Inside it is ivory-colored and very creamy.
Valdieue - . - This cheese is a close cousin to Carré de
1 Est, in shape, size and flavor.
Valmeuse - . - This is again in the Brie family, but it contains
a special stabilizer to retard ammoniation.
Semi-Soft Cheeses:
These are cheeses which are semi-firm to the touch, with a smooth, buttery
texture inside that yields on finger pressure, or when cut with a knife.
They are mild in flavor with a clean, fresh tang to them that varies in
strength depending on the age. Because they slice easily (especially when
the knife blade has been dipped in very hot water),
they have good melting qualities and are often used in cooking. But they
are excellent as well for snacks, dessert courses with bread and fruit
and a modest French red wine. Most semi-soft cheeses have an inedible
crust.
Babybeh . . - Made from cows milk, this cheese is firm
in texture and retains its freshness because it is enveloped in a red
paraffin wrapper. It has a slightly nutty flavor.
Bonbel - . . Also made from cows milk, this is firm in texture
and has a yellow paraffin wrapper. Slightly larger than its cousin, Babybel,
this cheese, too is slightly nutty in flavor.
Chiberta - - - A specialty of the Basque country, in the south
of France, this cheese is made from cows milk, is ivory-colored
on the inside with tiny holes. It is avail able in a four-pound round
and has a dark orange inedible crust.
Livarot - . . A famous specialty of the province of Normandy, this
is a round cheese with a strong and piquant flavor.
Edam Français. . . Rich orange in color with a red rind
and a distinct nutty flavor.
Munster - . . From the province of Alsace, this cheese has a strong
aroma but is milder in taste. Square-shaped and rather orange-y in color,
it is sometimes flavored with cumin or caraway.
Pont lEvêque - . . Again a Norman specialty, the name
of the cheese means Bishops Bridge. It is square shaped with impressions
on its usually edible rind which result
from the straw on which it is ripened.
Port Salut . . - Originated by the Trappist monks in their Monastery
of Port-du-Salut
Entrammes, this popular cheese comes in a four-pound round with
an inedible orange rind. It slices readily and is ideal in recipes.
Reblochon . . - Made in the French Alps, the name derives from
the term for the second-milking of the day, the cows milk, which
is used to make this cheese. A small, flat disk, it is mild in flavor.
Royaldieue - . . Similar in texture and body to Port Salut but
has a higher butter fat content. The crust is not edible.
St. Nectaire - . . Again, a cousin to Port Salut but its inedible
crust is darkish brown.
St. Paulin - . - Another look-alike to Port Salut, in shape and
flavor, but it does not have an orange crust. This cheese is also a creation
of the Trappist monks.
Goat's Milk Cheeses---Chevres:
These cheeses are much prized by connoisseurs and almost every region
of France has its own special goats milk cheese. They are found
in many sizes and shapes, such as 3- to 8-inch round patties, log-shaped,
drum-shaped, pyramids, rounds, loaves, etc. Textures vary from soft, but
firm, somewhat like cream cheese, to extremely hard.
Chevres make excellent dessert cheeses, served with bread and fruit. The
French wines recommended to drink with these unique cheeses are modest
white wines or rosés.
Banon - . - A round flat disk in small and large sizes, this
cheese is a specialty of
Provence. It is wrapped in chest nut leaves and tied with raffia.
Capricette - . . This is a fresh goat cheese, with a low fat content
and a delightful tangy flavor. Available in 4-oz. plastic cups.
Chabichou - . . Small cone-shaped, soft goat cheese, which is ideal
for dessert. It is made in the Poitou region, and its flavor varies from
fruity to sharp depending on its age.
Chèvre au Poivreaux Herbes . . . These patty-shaped
cheeses are sprinkled with pepper, fennel and rosemary. All are excellent
as hors doeuvre.
Chevrotin . . - A popular cheese of this variety. It has a fat
content of 45 per cent, mild aroma, with a creamy texture and nutty flavor.
Montrachet .. . This is made in the province of Burgundy, and always
comes in the shape of a log. Mild and creamy in flavor with a rind that
may or may not be dusted with vine wood ash. Good keeping quality.
Pyramide - . - Sometimes called Valençay, this is, as its
name implies a pyramid-shaped cheese. It has a mild nutty flavor and also
its edible rind may or may not be dusted with wood ash.
St. Marcellin . - Originally this cheese, from the Isère
Valley, was made strictly from goats milk. Today, it is more often
a combination of cow and goat. It is a soft round disk, with a mild slightly
acid flavor.
Sainte Maure . . - A soft-ripened goat cheese, log-shaped, with
a thin edible crust and a mild flavor which becomes more pronounced as
it ages. It is sometimes called Tonnelets.
Blue Cheeses:
These cheeses have a blue vein marbling mostly developed by natural fermentation
processes, sometimes by inoculation to start or hasten ripening, and maturing.
The term persillé, which is often applied to these cheeses, has
nothing to do with parsley. Rather it refers to the blue- green veining
which resembles parsley. These cheeses have a tangy flavor, some more
than others, are usually semi-soft, often crumbly, especially when cold.
Natural blue cheeses are produced in many areas of France and are named
after their region or origin.
Most blue-veined cheeses are marvelous with fruit, crusty bread or unsalted
crackers, either for snacks, hors doeuvre or as a dessert course.
Their robust flavor calls for a full-bodied French red wine. In the US
these cheeses are widely used in salads and salad dressings.
Bleu dAuvergne - . . From the mountains of the rustic region
of the Auvergne, this cheese is made from cows milk. It has a rich,
sharp flavor.
Bleu de Bresse. - . Also made from cows milk in the region
of Bresse, this cheese is available either in cylinders or long loaves.
It has a mild flavor for this type of cheese.
Pipo Creme . .. This cheese, available in six-pound rolls, has
a very distinct flavor, slices easily as it does not crumble. The thin
crust is edible.
Roquefort
The King of cheeses as it is known throughout the world.
Made exclusively from ewes milk in the south of France and aged
and ripened in the limestone caves of the small village of Roquefort.
It is unique unlike any other cheese in flavor and texture. Authentic
Roquefort can be easily identified by the red sheep emblem on the label.
Firm Texture Cheeses:
These cheeses are used very often in gratiné dishes, as an ingredient
in many recipes, and are very popular in sandwiches, or as snacks. Usually
they have many eyes, the size of which is helpful in identifying
the various kinds.
Beaumont . . . A specialty of the Savoie region of France, this
cheese has a distinct nutty flavor. It has a tannish crust which is not
edible. Inside, the ivory colored cheese has many tiny eyes
arranged close together.
Comte . . - A product of the Jura region, it is similar to Emmental,
but has smaller and fewer eyes about the size of cherries. It comes in
large, fiat wheels which may weigh as much as 75 pounds. (In France Gruyère
is the generic term for this cheese.)
Emmental Français. . . Identified by its eyes which are
relatively large. This cheese has a nutlike tang that adds zest to such
dishes as quiches, fondues and sauces.
Mimolette . . . Made in the north of France from cows milk,
it is about the size and shape of Edam. In texture and flavor, however,
it is more similar to cheddar. Out side it is orange and inside a bright
yellow.
Tomme des Pyrénées . . . A cheese from Frances
Basque country, it is a large round cows milk cheese, with an inedible
black rind.
Tomme de Savoie... From the Alpine region, this cheese is made
from cows milk and has a low fat content. It is firm, subtly flavored
and comes in a flat, round disc which weighs about four to six pounds.
Hard Cheeses:
Cantal. . . A native of the Auvergne region, this is one of Frances
oldest and most famous cheeses. Has a piquant flavor but its hard crust
is not edible. It is low in fat and high in protein making it an
excellent choice for dieters. Fine for cooking or as a simple table cheese
with bread and red wine. A wheel may weigh as much as 100 pounds.
Process Cheese:
Most of Frances process cheeses are a blend with a creme de Gruyère
as as base. They may have a firm, heavy texture, or may be soft, smooth
and spreadable.
Beau Pasteur . . . This cheese has a mild, distinct flavor, a creamy
buttery texture and no crust. It is available in a three-pound round.
Fondu au Raisin . - . A semi-soft cheese with a distinctive grape
flavor imparted by its rind (inedible) of grape seeds, called marc
the remains from the pressed grapes.
Gourmandise - . . Similar to Beau Pasteur with either a cherry
or walnut flavor. A party and dessert favorite.
La Grappe - . - Another name for the cheese called Fondu au Raisin.
La Vache Qui Rit. . . Which means laughing cow, a picture
of which appears on the label. This has become an American favorite. It
is available in cocktail-size pieces or in packages of individual wedge-shaped
portions.
Nec Plus Ultra - . - Similar in texture and quality to Gourmandise.
It is served in the same manner, and also is available in cherry or walnut
flavors.
Six de Savoie... Similar to La Vache Qui Rit, it is pack aged in
small triangular wedges.
Tomme au Marc . . . Same as Fondu au Raisin.
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